Silver pendant set with a coloured cubic zirconia gemstone cluster

Diamond vs Natural Zircon vs Cubic Zirconia: What's the Real Difference?

A diamond is a natural or lab-grown crystal made of pure carbon, the hardest material on Earth. Natural zircon is a completely different mineral (zirconium silicate) that occurs naturally in the ground and has real sparkle of its own. Cubic zirconia (CZ) is a lab-made stone (zirconium dioxide) designed specifically to mimic a diamond's brilliance at a fraction of the cost. The three sound similar and are often confused, but they are not related, and knowing the difference matters if you are buying, wearing, or trying to spot a fake.

In this article

What actually are diamond, zircon and zirconia?

Diamond is carbon, crystallised under extreme heat and pressure either deep in the earth or in a lab. It scores a perfect 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, the hardest natural substance known.

Natural zircon is a mineral in its own right, mined from the ground in places like Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Australia. It is made of zirconium silicate and has genuine fire and brilliance, in some cases close to a diamond's. It is a real, naturally occurring gemstone, not a diamond substitute grown in a factory.

Cubic zirconia is not related to zircon at all, despite the similar name. It is a synthetic material (zirconium dioxide) manufactured in a lab specifically to look like a diamond. Industrial production began in the 1970s and it has been the standard diamond simulant ever since.

Silver pendant set with a coloured cubic zirconia gemstone cluster
Cubic zirconia is lab-made and comes in colours natural stones rarely do, like this ruby-tone cluster pendant.

Diamond vs natural zircon vs cubic zirconia: the numbers

Here is how the three compare side by side.

Feature Diamond Natural zircon Cubic zirconia
Origin Natural or lab-grown, pure carbon Natural mineral, mined Synthetic, made in a lab
Hardness (Mohs scale) 10 (hardest known) 6.5 to 7.5 Around 8.5
Sparkle / fire High, mostly white light Good, less fire than diamond, can show double refraction Very high, more rainbow fire than a real diamond
Durability day to day Extremely durable, resists scratching Good, can chip on facet edges over years Good, can scratch or cloud with heavy daily wear
Typical cost Hundreds to thousands per carat Mid-range, more than CZ, far less than diamond Low, a few pounds per stone

Source data on hardness and optical properties: International Gem Society.

How can you tell them apart?

A jeweller uses a thermal or electrical conductivity tester, since diamond conducts heat in a way neither zircon nor CZ can match. Without a tester, there are a few visual clues:

  • Weight: cubic zirconia is heavier than a diamond of the same size, since it is denser. A loose stone that feels surprisingly heavy for its size is a strong clue it is CZ.
  • Sparkle colour: diamonds throw off mostly white light. CZ throws noticeably more rainbow colour (fire) than a diamond of the same cut.
  • Clarity: natural diamonds almost always have tiny internal marks under magnification. CZ is grown in a lab and is usually flawless to the eye, which is itself a clue.
  • Doubling: natural zircon is birefringent, meaning it can show a very faint doubling of the facet edges when you look closely through the top of the stone. Diamond and CZ do not do this.
Close up of an aquamarine coloured cubic zirconia cluster pendant in sterling silver
CZ is cut and coloured to order, so it comes in shades natural diamond and zircon simply do not.

Which one should you actually buy?

For an engagement ring meant to last a lifetime and hold value, a diamond is still the only one of the three built for permanent daily wear at the highest hardness. Natural zircon suits someone who wants a genuine, naturally occurring gemstone with real fire, at a lower price than diamond, and who is happy to have it re-polished occasionally over the years. Cubic zirconia is the practical choice for fashion jewellery: pendants, drop earrings, statement rings you want to change up with your outfit, where the priority is bold sparkle and colour at a price that lets you own several rather than just one.

Unlike most silver retailers, we actually stock both genuine natural zircon and cubic zirconia, so you can see the real difference rather than take our word for it. Our natural zircon rings are set with genuine mined zircon gemstones, rhodium plated for extra shine, at a mid-range price between our CZ pieces and what you would expect to pay for a diamond equivalent. Our cubic zirconia pendants use lab-made CZ cut and coloured to mimic specific gemstones, sapphire, ruby, emerald and aquamarine, giving you the look of a coloured gemstone collection at a lower price point again.

Silver trilogy natural zircon eternity ring
Natural Zircon Ring
Trilogy Natural Zircon Eternity Ring

Five genuine natural zircon stones hand set in sterling silver, rhodium plated for extra shine. A real mined gemstone at a natural zircon price.

Silver blue natural zircon flower ring
Natural Zircon Ring
Blue Natural Zircon Flower Ring

A genuine blue natural zircon centre stone in a hand crafted flower setting, sterling silver, rhodium plated.

Silver round sapphire zirconia gemstone cluster pendant
Cubic Zirconia Pendant
Round Sapphire Zirconia Gemstone Cluster Pendant

Sapphire-tone CZ set in solid sterling silver, surrounded by a cluster of white zirconia. Supplied on a fine snake chain, 16", 18" or 20".

Silver round ruby zirconia gemstone cluster pendant
Cubic Zirconia Pendant
Round Ruby Zirconia Gemstone Cluster Pendant

Ruby-tone CZ centre stone with a white zirconia surround, set in solid sterling silver. Supplied on a fine snake chain, 16", 18" or 20".

Frequently asked questions

Is natural zircon the same as cubic zirconia?

No. They only sound alike. Natural zircon is a mined mineral (zirconium silicate) with its own natural sparkle. Cubic zirconia is a synthetic stone (zirconium dioxide) made in a lab specifically to imitate diamond.

Is cubic zirconia a fake diamond?

It is a diamond simulant, not a fake in the sense of being deceptive when sold honestly. A well-made CZ stone is not trying to be a diamond, it is a lab-made stone valued for looking similar at a much lower cost.

Which is harder, zircon or cubic zirconia?

Cubic zirconia, at around 8.5 on the Mohs scale, is harder than natural zircon, which sits at 6.5 to 7.5. Diamond outranks both at 10.

Does cubic zirconia turn cloudy or lose its sparkle?

Well-made CZ set in solid sterling silver keeps its sparkle for years with normal care. Cloudiness is usually a build-up of soap, lotion or skin oils rather than the stone itself degrading, and it comes off with a soft cloth and warm soapy water.

Can a jeweller tell diamond, zircon and cubic zirconia apart instantly?

Yes, with a thermal or electrical conductivity tester, which reads a diamond's unique heat conductivity in seconds. Without a tester, weight, fire colour and clarity under magnification are the practical clues.

Is it worth buying cubic zirconia jewellery?

For everyday and fashion pieces, yes. You get strong sparkle and colour options at a price that lets you build a varied collection, and in solid sterling silver the setting itself is genuinely durable, even though the stone is a lab-made simulant rather than a natural or precious gem.

Shop genuine natural zircon and cubic zirconia, side by side

Natural zircon rings set with real mined gemstones, and cubic zirconia pendants in sapphire, ruby, emerald and aquamarine tones. All in solid sterling silver.

Shop natural zircon rings →

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